22 - Continuing An Coileach and Inner Loch Stocinis

Thursday Afternoon - 18th May – Continuing An Coileach and Inner Loch Stocinis

By this point it was quite clear and sunny - very black to the west with looming clouds, but with the wind from the south that did not matter. By 2:30 pm I had a clear view of the east coast and the full breadth of Northern Skye. Only the tips of the Cuillins were in cloud. Forced upwards, to avoid lots of ups and downs, I was climbing more than I wished, but found I emerged from around the side of Heileasbhal Mor at the same height as the col between it and An Coileach.

Looking east across the maze of lochans and rocky knobbles when approaching Heileasbhal Mor

Three eagles appeared above the basin shape between the hills, circling lazily and rising – veering towards An Coileach before disappearing over its skyline. Moving into the Bealach na Ciste, I found it was steeper sided and deeper than I had expected from the map. It was 3:20 pm. On my original plan, 4:00 pm was my deadline for reaching the ridge, with 5:00 pm for the summit, but obviously my unintended morning excursion to Tarbert and a later bus had set my schedule back. I still did not want to exhaust myself or be too late in the day, so I was watching the time. I headed for a point high on the ridge, as far up as feasible without making the ascent too steep - basically picking out a route (60 to 70-degrees) aiming to meet the An Coileach ridge SE of the trig point. I approached the top that was in sight, possibly a false summit or part of the ridge, but there, to my surprise, was the trig point right in front of me and it was 3:55 pm.

The 360 degree panorama from the summit of An Coileach

(Within a precision of 200 metres, my route ran between these grid references: 076904, 077907, 078910, 078915, 080923, 083924, 087925.) I took wide angle photos to form into a panorama and zoom shots of the Trottenish Peninsular with Stocinis in front; and of the Shiant Isles with Loch Tarbert.

The 180 degree panorama from the summit of An Coileach, South - West - North

The 180 degree panorama from the summit of An Coileach, West - North - East

The 180 degree panorama from the summit of An Coileach, North - East - South

Heavy downpours were approaching – just passing me by, I hoped.  NE from the summit of An Coileach there lies a steep drop with cliffs.  To reach Bealach Garbh, I chose to head down the NNW ridge first, then double back to follow the line of the rock strata.  A bearing of 330-degrees off the summit for 500 m to 085930; north, 0 degrees, for 300 m to 085933; then zig-zagging either side of 104-degrees brought me down to Bealach Garbh quite comfortably. There was a blasting wind whipping around the hillside but it was calmer towards the bottom, where I was serenaded by a cuckoo. Seeing steep rock edges rising up from the water in the lochans lining the lower Bealach, water extending side to side from cliff to cliff, it looked like it would be difficult to pass through, so, I made for the fissure east of the Bealach and followed it on a 158-degree bearing (090932 to 093926). This was a steep-sided mini-bealach running parralel to, but higher that the main Bealach Garbh.  With heather covering a boulder cascade within this mini-bealach, I needed care to avoid losing a leg down one of the hidden gaps between boulders. As the right side opened up, I was a bit surprised to see a dipper flying off from one of the lochans below. I associate them with quickly flowing streams and rivers in secluded valleys, but the flight was distinctive - a direct flight with rapid wing-beats, dumpy body, with dark uppers and a white belly. 

Loch Tarbert with the Shiant Isles on the horizon,
from the summit of An Coileach

The Trottenish Peninsular on Skye, with Eilean Stocinis, S Harris, in front,
from the summit of An Coileach

From the edge of An Coileach, looking over Loch Mheanis, Aird Mhanais, to the Cuillins on Skye

Emerging onto the hillside, I maintained some height above the bealach and headed south-east, either following the contours or descending in stages, until, after crossing the ridge below Sron Udromuil (102917), I was contouring or descending on a 60-degree bearing until I met the edge of Loch Geumasgairbhe(107922). Continuing with my 60-degree bearing brought me close to Loch Saile, where I strode east (south of the loch) over some difficult terrain – heather over strewn large rocks – to reach the road (117926) at 6:55 pm.

From the northern edge of An Coileach, looking down to Traigh Losgaintir, with the Isle of Taransay on the left and the higher hills of North Harris on the right

Coming around the Inner Loch Stocinis sea-inlet by Aird Mhighe (confusing having left a different Aird Mhighe at the southern part of this trek), I thought I saw a sheep stranded – caught by the tide - on rocks and seaweed, completely surrounded by water. Then I realised it was a seal. Looking around I counted 16 seals.

Returning to my van at 8:20 pm, I needed a quick and easy meal – boiling water poured to cover couscous, stood for 4 minutes, fluffed up with a fork, eaten with a tin of pilchards; tinned rice pudding with an orange. Then I cleaned and polished my boots – the Meindls were moist inside, but the Brashers were thoroughly dry, the leather was too dry – more polishing for both pairs on Friday.