1 - Walking the Western Isles - The Approach

Thursday and Friday, 4th and 5th May – ‘The Approach’

I drove up from Gloucestershire to the Scottish borders on Thursday.  On Friday, passing the Cuillins, above, I drove to Uig, on Skye, and stayed at the campsite close to the ferry terminal. 

The next morning, I went early to the ferry, wandering about the pier area until the office opened.  

Then with my ticket in hand, waited for the ferry to arrive.

I caught the 9:40 ferry to Lochmaddy, and then drove south to the ferry jetty on Eriskay.  

The weather was clear and the light splendid, so I made a number of stops en route down through the Uists and Benbecula.  

Approaching Lochmaddy from Uig

Approaching Lochmaddy

Eaval on North Uist

Hecla and Beinn Mhor from Benbecula

Hecla and Beinn Mhor from Loch Druidibeag, S Uist

I needed a place to park for a couple of days – the car park at the Eriskay ferry terminal was ideal.  It was not just an accepted place for campervans to stop overnight.  I was pleased to find that the terminal building had a waiting room, with toilets and washroom remaining accessible all hours of day or night.  (In 2017, it was smart, clean and tidy; returning in 2019, it wasn't clean and looked as though maintenance might soon be due.  These things do change from year to year.)

My plan was to travel as a foot passenger on the 8:10 am ferry from Eriskay to Airdmhor, Barra, and then catch the connecting bus at 8:50 am to arrive at Castle Bay, 9:30 am, followed by the 9:30 am connecting bus to arrive on Vatersay at 9:45 am; walk the 15 km over the high ground of Vatersay and the south of Barra - Beinne Ruilibreac, Theiseabhal Mor and Beinne Tangabhal - to Castle Bay, use the Co-op shop, camp above Castle Bay and the next day ascend Heabhal, follow the highest ground northwards to reach the minor road, possibly ascend Beinn Eireabhal, before following the minor road to the jetty; then return by ferry at the next sailing time (7:00, 9:25, 11:10, 15:45, or 17:30).  Thus, I anticipated two days of walking and two nights.  To reduce on weight, I decided not to carry a stove and fuel, but instead, to carry cooked and ready to eat food.

My rucksack was packed the evening before:

Equipment - tent (1.5 kg), sleeping bag (1.1 kg), closed-cell mat, down jacket, cag, lightweight over-trousers, thermal vest and thermal leggings, 2 walking poles, sun-cream, mini-soap, mini-toothbrush, mini-toothpaste, spare camera battery, head-torch, sun-hat, lightweight-towel (also functions as a scarf), foot-talc, mossie-repellent, knife, compass, whistle, map, Immodium, Puritabs, loo paper, spare insoles, first-aid (Betadine, plasters, bandage, etc.);

Food – two boiled eggs, 5 cooked chicken thighs laid between slices of bread, a whole loaf of bread spread as sandwiches, apple, orange, oatcakes, snack bars, two 350 ml drink bottles – one empty and one full of water.  My remaining milk was to hang outside my pack from a strap - in its plastic carton and be my initial drink supply.