Epilogue
Now that I have written this account, I look back with a few thoughts. I would have liked to have completed this journey without using a vehicle. However, weather conditions, and fitness to carry the required load, at my age, counted against that – unless, or course, I’d had a support vehicle, but that would have inconvenienced another person who didn’t benefit from the jaunt.
I would have liked to complete all the stages in the correct order, from Vatersay, always travelling north, so that when I reached the Butt of Lewis I’d have had that sense of completion in the right place – it was an intention that I abandoned due to weather, despair and impetuosity.
I wish I’d walked more of the route off-track and over hilltop routes. With the prevailing weather conditions that would have entailed waiting for several days at various points, which did not suit me.
On the other hand, I did complete the journey, and by making some loops, I did investigate more than just a through route; I gained a connected feel for the “lie of the land” through the length and some of the width of the Western Isles.
There are sections of my original plan, as well as neighbouring areas, that are calling to me to return:
On South Uist, to walk NE from Loch Aineort over Beinn Mhor and Thacla, then via Maol Martaig to Loch Sgioport. I have walked from Loch Aineort onto Beinn Mhor and along its ridge before, with some of my family, 14 years earlier, when my youngest son was nine. Those memories add to the attraction of completing that two-day section.
On North Uist, to walk from Cladach Chairinis east and then north over Eaval: east and then north over Burabhal to Loch Euphort – a route involving navigation through a labyrinth of lochs, but promising incredible views over a peninsular 50% covered with water.
To return to the solitude in the centre of South Harris – Heileasbhal Mor, and across An Coileach (again) - and also to traverse the high ground from Ceann Reabhar over Beinn Losgaintir to Beinn Dubh.
On North Harris, west of the An Cliseam range (which I would gladly visit again), there lie at least four circuits, of greater distance, probably better completed over six days of walking.
Then on South-West Lewis, east of Breanais, two lines of hills – Mealaisbhal to Griomabhal and Tahabhal to Tamanasbhal – stand either side of the Bealach Raonasgail, inviting at least four days of walking.
So, with 16 days, all requiring fair weather, and some misty restful wanderings in between, I might start a sequel in a year or so – “Graham’s Western Isles Journal - Exploring more of the higher ground”.
Appendix
Bus timetables
www.cne-siar.gov.uk/roads-travel-and-parking/public-transport/bus-services/
Ferry timetables
www.calmac.co.uk
My original outline plan (quite likely, impracticable, and intelligible only with the relevant OS map): This was my first plan, which I then adapted because I then had a campervan to use. I then re-adapted it as I discovered the practicalities of the bus services, experienced the symptoms of my level of fitness and physique, and then made choices as a consequence of various weather conditions. I would recommend having a variety of alternative plans and not to be totally dependent for food on the shops on Lewis - they may close down and/or re-open - they're competing with Tesco in Stornaway with free connecting bus journeys for the over 60's.
Drive to Uig, on Skye, catch the ferry to Lochmaddy, and then drive south to the ferry jetty on Eriskay. Find a place to park for a couple of days. Catch the first ferry and bus south to Vatersay. Pitch camp at the Vatersay dunes, 9 km south of Castlebay, GR 632953.
Walk 1
Leave tent and walk 2km south to Heillanish point 633935;
2 km to Beinne Ruilibreac 624940;
N to coast 625947; path to beach;
2km N/NW to tent, pack camp;
NNE to Theiseabhal Mor (~190 m) 627964;
4.5 km NE then N to road and bridge;
N to Beinne Tangabhal (332 m) 639991;
W to road A888, to Castlebay – shop and eat;
(shop open 7 am – 10 pm Mon – Sat, 12:30 – 10 pm Sunday);
then by A888(or back road) to [P] 678987 – camp.
Walk 2
N to statue and Sheabhal (383 m);
N to 677001; W to 682001;
N following highest ground to 685033;
Either {A888 W to 704032 and minor road to 705045}
Or {N to 685040; NE to 691044 Beinn Eireabhal (201 m) and W to 705045}
Follow minor road SE and E to jetty 722038;
Ferry to Eriskay (at 7:15 / 9:15 / 11:10 / 15:40 / 17:20);
via Ben Scriathen (185 m) {1/2 km NE to road, cross, 1 km NE to Ben Scriathen; 1.3 km NW to Erskay community shop and PO (open Mon – Sat 9 am – 6 pm).
Camp.
Walk 3
3.1 km over causeway to 778142;
then either {N to Easabhal (240 m) 773157}
or {W to Kilbride beach 758140; then NNE track 761152 and NE to Easabhal 773157}
Then follow high ground to 768174 (NE 1 km & NW 2 km);
766179 N to 766193;
minor road to 754200;
main road N to Dalabrog Co-op 754211 (open 7 am – 10 pm 7 days but 12:30 – 10 pm on Sunday?) – prepare food for 3 days.
Walk 4
3.8 km E to 785201;
road and track NE, footbridge 787205;
footpath ENE along stream to 796208;
NE to Bealach na Diollaid 807221;
past Lochan nan Arm; NNE to 814234;
NW to Stulabhal (374 m) 807241;
E 0.5 km; NE 0.5 km; N/NNW 1 km to 811255;
WNW to Ben Ailein (182 m) 796260 – all following highest ground
Then either {NW to coast 786275 then W to road}
Or {WSW to Airneabhal (257 m) 785256 and NNW over Trinneabhal (198 m) to road}
Walk 5
Road NW to 765295; road SE to 788283;
footpath E & NE to Bealach Crosgard 815297;
1.6 km NE to Beinn Mhor – continue along ridge 805322;
ENE to Bealach Sheillosdail;
1 km N along 250 m contour to 815338;
0.5 km NE, then N to ridge and ascend E OR E and NE to Thacla (606 m) 826346;
0.5 km NE; 1 km E to 838348;
1.2 km NNE to 843360 [reverse map];
N 0.2 km; descend to ENE and spiral left to Maol Martaig 846365;
NW 3.2 km to path 832382;
follow path ~1 km to road – Loch Sgioport – Camp 828385
Walk 6
Follow road W to 820387;
then high ground NW to Beinn Tairbert 807396;
and NE to cross at flood gate 814401;
then NNW to 804437 and track to road;
at 804442 take track N to 806448 and cut to 805450 to meet road through Aird Mhor and join A865 N to cross causeway to shop - Co-op at Creag-Goraidh 797482 (7 am – 10 pm Mon – Sat, 12:30 – 10 pm Sunday);
follow coast and camp at 761543 or 761535;
Walk 7
Mac Lennan’s Supermarket 771554 (8 am – 8 pm M – Sat, 11 – 4 pm Sun) – food for 2 days;
follow B892 and A 865 to causeways 849585;
841597 turn E / SE along minor road to 862588;
NE 1.8 km to 866603; 1.6 km E and SE to 880596; camp.
Walk 8
2.1 km ENE to Eaval (347 m) 899605;
1.6 km ENE to 913610;
N 0.7 km; NW 1.8 km to Burabhal (141 m);
NE and E 1 km to road;
9 km W to junction of B894 and A867.
Walk 9 Options:
A.
NW to 768672;
Committee Road (track) to 787697;
ascend E to 808700 – Marrival (756 m);
N to 810718;
track N to Sollas 805745 – Sollas Stores (Sollas Co-op 7 – 11 pm M – Sat? 10 – 4 Sun? Or just 7 – 10pm M – Sat only?);
road E to junction.
B.
NW to 768672;
Committee Road (track) to 787697;
ascend E to 808700 – Marrival (756 m);
E to 829699 Morragh;
1 km NE, 2 km E, 4 km NNE to junction;
C.
As B but cut from 810640 to Uneval to Marrival.
Walk 10
8.6 km NNE to Berneray Ferry – to Leverburgh – ferry times 07:15 /10:25 / 13:30 / 17:20 / (Sun 08:30 / 13:00 / 16:30) with variations for tides!
Leverburgh shop 1.6 km from ferry at 019866 (M – Th 9 – 6, F & Sat 9 – 7, Sun X); Road 021 863 to 024883 – Camp.
Walk 11
Follow ridge SE to 037874;
to col & S to 043861 – explore tops;
from Roineabhal N over Bhoiseabhal;
NE between streams to 053879;
around to E of Loch, then bearing 20 deg to 056887, 0 deg to 056899;
72 deg to 075905; 55 deg to 087916;
0 deg onto ridge;
332 deg along ridge over An Coileach (389 m);
348 deg to 0082946;
follow E side of stream N (21 deg); cut to 956086;
N 0 deg to track at 962086;
track to road 091971;
E 0.5 km;
N on minor road 0.25 km.
Walk 12
To 094974; at bend, between 2 streams ascend 0 deg 0.5 km;
16 deg for 1.8 km to ridge 098996;
follow ridge NW to Beinn Dubh (506 m) 089006;
ridge walk to Beinn nan Leac 120983;
descend 66 deg to 135990;
0 deg 200 m; 67 deg to Tarbert – Shop;
Walk 13
East through Tarbert; follow metalled road to 177004;
track NE and N along Glen Lacasdail to 181037;
from Glen Lacasdail 181 037 – Camp by stream.
Walk 14
NW – 315 deg to 167051; cross A859;
357deg into col at 164057;
332 deg onto ridge;
315 deg to Clisham (An Cliseam 799 m);
follow ridge 330 deg;
then 275 deg (1.2 km) onto Mulla-Fo-Deass (734 m);
150 deg 600 m then 0 deg 400 m to Mulla-Fo-Thuath.
Follow ridge 20 deg 300 m;
330 deg 250 m; 0 dg 200 m; 30 deg 0.5 km to Mullach an Langa (614 m);
descend 45 deg NE 1 km to 149103;
turning to between 340 deg and 355 deg to follow ‘best’ route to 150119 – Camp
Walk 15
Follow ‘path’ to 135129;
then N over high ground – 134136 (800 m) to 132155 2 km; 132165;
6 deg to 133176;
12 deg to meet ‘path’ at 136186;
follow ‘path’ 355 deg to 132201;
follow path N to road 137243;
B8011 NE 17.5 km to A858 then NW to Calanais – No food shop!!!
Walk 16
~19 km by road, coast and cliff meanderings to Shawbost – shop? (M – Th & Sa 9 – 7, F 9 – 8)?
Walk 17
~20 km by road, coast and cliff meanderings to Borve Minimart – shop? (M – Sa 8 – 8)?
Walk 18
~11 km by road, coast and cliff meanderings to Cross Stores and Butchers?, Cross, Skigersta Rd (M- F 9 – 6, Sa 9 – 7)?
Walk 19
~11 km by road, coast and cliff meanderings around Butt of Lewis headland to Port of Ness – shop? (M Tu Th F 9 – 1 2 – 5:30, W 9 – 1, Sa 9 – 12:30)?
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